FAQ
Lawn Care
Yes. We offer a 100% organic fertilizer.
Beautiful organic lawns may take a little longer to achieve desired results. but they are a reality. The questions we discuss on organic sales calls are:
What is your tolerance for weeds, insects, etc.? Because there aren’t the immediate results that we associate with synthetic control means.
We will never push a specific product or method on a customer, and instead will talk about your goals and create a plan that will best meet them.
Yes. We do carry selective and non-selective organic options. Organic control is very tough to achieve but not impossible. The biggest issue being is most products break down before fully eliminating the threat.
Crabgrass is a weed that thrives in the heat and can severely limit the development of seedlings. The most effective way to prevent crabgrass is through early proactive weed control. Consulting a professional should be the first step when tackling this technical process.
No! In the last couple of years starter fertilizers containing mesotrione have changed the way we deal with seeding. These products are more expensive than traditional fertilizers but save a lot of time, money and aggravation in the long run.
The timing and frequency of seeding and fertilizing depend on the type of grass and geography. For example, southern, warm season grasses have different management needs when compared to a northern, cool season grass. To create a healthy yard through proper seeding and fertilizing, homeowners should consult with a professional.
Spring and fall are the best times of year because the temperatures are cooler, and this makes it easier to keep the soil moist for germination. There is less weed pressure in the fall which is also a benefit for seeding.
Most lawns contain a mix of different grass types and require a balance of sun and water. If not properly watered or overshadowed by landscape design features, lawns can begin to grow unevenly in spring. To best reduce the likelihood of an uneven lawn, cut grass 2 to 2 ½ inches to remove winter and dormant debris during the initial mow. Then, after the first cut, trim grass 3 to 3 ½ inches to maintain even growth.
Brown spots in your lawn can be caused by a variety of issues such as dry areas, over watering, pet damage and mower tracks. After identifying the initial cause, professionals can address and eliminate brown spots providing homeowners a consistent and healthy lawn.
Creating a healthy lawn is a science and every lawn is different. From achieving the right pH balance and applying fertilizer to banishing weeds and repairing brown spots, proper lawn care requires a professionally crafted, custom plan for your individual lawn.
No. Thatch is caused by roots growing near the surface. Mulching helps to deter thatch by helping with the decomposition process.
This is a very common misconception in lawn care, when done correctly mulching your grass clippings is actually very beneficial. Cutting at 3 to 3.5 inches using mulching mower blades and the proper chute blocker are all going to make this an easy job.
Grass clipping being returned to the turf keep vital nutrients where they belong, in your lawn. What we do want to avoid is thick clumps of grass, trails coming from the mower or mulching the lawn while its wet. This will block the blades of the lawn from the sunlight it needs. Causing a whole host of issues.
Ticks
When we talk about tick borne illness, we think Lyme’s Disease. But there are many. many diseases that they can carry and transmit to us and our pets including Encephalitis Rocky Mt. Spotted Fever, tick paralysis, tularemia, cytauxzoonosis, canine ehrlichiosis, hepatozoonosis, anaplasmosis, and babesiosis.
The best protection we have against Ticks is making our yards uninviting to them. A good monthly control program is a big step toward creating a tick safe yard for you and your family.
Ticks have sharp mouthparts rather like tiny crab claws. Ticks begin feeding by secreting a numbing chemical, so the host doesn’t feel their hard, stabbing mandibles pierce the skin. The mouthparts are barbed so the pet can’t scratch or rub to dislodge the tick.
Ticks don’t digest solids, so they dribble saliva into the wound to dissolve tissues and suck up the liquified material. The saliva contains enough bacteria and protozoa that ticks are among the most potent disease vectors in the world.
How Do I Remove A Tick?
A: Ticks literally bury their heads into the skin to suck fluids.
*Do not try to squeeze them.
*Do not heat them with matches.
*Do not pour alcohol on them.
*Do not slather them with petroleum jelly.
Instead, for tick removal, slip a pair of tweezers or tick puller as close to the skin as possible, and gently ease the tick out.
*GRAB BY THE HEAD, where the tick enters the skin, not by the body.
*Pull gently and do not twist.
*Drop the tick into alcohol to kill it.
*Flushing down the toilet will not kill ticks!
*Do not squish the tick to death with your fingers. Contagious tick-borne diseases are transmitted this way.
Mosquitoes
Males usually live about five to seven days, while females can live two weeks to a month, under ideal conditions.
A female will continue to bite and draw blood until her abdomen is full. If she is interrupted before she is full, she will fly to the next person. After feeding, the mosquito rests for two or three days before laying her eggs, then is ready to bite again.
Mosquito control is multi layered for sure.
On my end I treat the perimeter of the living area of your property, as well as the foundation of your home. I also target prime breeding areas.
On top of this success comes from eliminating favorable habitat and breeding areas. Anything with standing water will be very inviting, so eliminating any containers, tarps, tires, etc. will greatly improve your results.
Cleaning your gutters so water is flowing through and not collecting is something I have noticed as a trouble spot on some properties.